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I brought up the fact that your W2A supercharger back then made more power than my current a2a supercharger. Thanks for this, I actually mentioned your car to them after reading about your informative posts on this forum (your car was done at the same shop). This shop is one of the more expensive shops in Australia and the build is already pushing my budget. They said that if they do, they'd have to charge for every single minute.
#Supercharger boost gauge kit install#
They're unfortunately handing the car back like this as they don't have time to diagnose further. Other than looks,are these things useful Just got the TRD 4.0L Supercharger kit installed on my Tacoma, and Im wondering if I should install a Boost Gauge - Is it easy to install Got pics you can share Heres the TRD version. From my research, it sounds like belt slippage to me but the tuner/shop was adamant that they have tried everything possible. They gave me the ethanol dyno sheet as they had it printed but didn't supply me one for 98. Since the kit is a used kit and it's a custom FMIC, they suspect its something wrong with the either one. They said they have tried a lot of different belts, different tensioners but they have no idea what's going on. The shop unfortunatly are not able to work on it. Within a safe pressure range, the car will perform well, or it may cause engine failure. However, more is not always better, only to a certain extent is good. As the engine thrust increases, the turbocharger or supercharger will push for greater boost. The car has been sitting at their shop for 1 whole month. The boost gauge monitors the pressure in the turbo or supercharger. After pulling up some previously tuned stillen sc cars in Australia, mine seems to be one of the LOWEST stillen supercharger in Australia, even with the A2A setup. The shop custom fabricated the air intake setup.Īfter some research and digging, they have tuned a stock stillen supercharger which made 283.7rwkw.
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They claim they have done the most forced induction 370z in whole of Australia. The car is tuned using ECUTEK and it made 270rwkw (362HP) on 98 and 308rwkw (413HP) on E85 with 5.5 psi boost, something is obviously not right and the tuner doesn't know what the problem is. The shop installed and tuned my car but they keep running into issues after issues.Īnd not to mention the supporting mods.
#Supercharger boost gauge kit manual#
Checking other points during the run had the same reading every time.My 2017 manual 370z is currently at a reputable shop in Australia getting the stillen supercharger kit with a custom air to air cooler. There are also dangerous ranges above that safe range that can. Your car has a safe range in pressure where it performs best. More isn’t always better and more boost is only good up to a certain point. As your engine is pushed harder, the turbo or supercharger pushes more boost. Found that the baro reading just before I started the run was the same as it was at 125mph at the 1/4 mile mark. This gauge monitors the pressure in your turbo or supercharger. With the baro breakout, and having the second MAP mounted in open air to the wiring harness on the engine, I checked a log from the dragstrip. All they would think was that it worked like a nitrous boost. Im assuming they left the gauge out because its a commercial game, not many people would understand the concept of a supercharger. Yes, saying they would change, but they shouldn't be doing so. All a supercharger does is increase the amount of air flowing through the intake. On your centrifugal supercharger, do you have a baro breakout kit? I bought one because with the MAF sensor mounted inside the intercooler, the baro readings were messed up. Then the TMAP is giving manifold pressure, so subtracting the MAF's baro reading from that. With the PD blower, he's probably getting baro from the stock MAF that is before the throttle body. On my car the ambient pressure will change by 1lb or more just by the car moving (air pressure building at the front of the car) if you log it. If you want something accurate, you will need either a mechanical gauge or use a gauge with a sensor. It is a one way check valve that once the boost passes thru it holds on the gauge until you release allowing the racer or tuner a chance to see what the blower is putting out during the pass. It is a memory kit for your boost gauge Uses standard 1/8' pipe thread which most manifolds are drilled and tapped and has a pressure relief valve to relieve the pressure after each pass. If you want a gauge just so you have something to watch go up and down, and show relative pressure, it will suffice. This is a very handy item to have installed on your race engine. It is reading the MAP, then subtracting Ambient Pressure from it to give you the remainder of what is left over. Understand that by reading boost thru the OBD port will be a "theoretical" boost reading.